Pipe Repair
From pinhole leaks to full repipes of aging galvanized and poly-B — done neatly, walls patched.
A burst pipe does not care what else you had planned, and the damage compounds by the hour. Whether it is a pinhole leak in aging copper, a failed fitting inside a wall, or a line that froze during a cold snap, the priority is the same: stop the water, open up the smallest area necessary, and make a permanent repair rather than a patch that fails behind closed drywall.
We repair and replace copper, PEX, and older galvanized lines, and we are straight with you about when a section repair makes sense versus when the surrounding pipe is in bad enough shape that replacing the run saves you the next three service calls. Every repair is pressure-tested before we close anything up.
What's Included
- Burst pipes and active leaks treated as the emergencies they are
- Copper, PEX, and galvanized line repair and replacement
- Minimal, targeted access openings rather than exploratory demolition
- Pressure testing on every repair before walls are closed
- Frank advice on section repair versus replacing a failing run
Common Questions
Shut off the water at the main valve, usually where the line enters the house or at the meter. Open a low faucet to drain pressure from the system. If water reached outlets or the panel, keep clear and mention it when you call so we know what we are walking into.
Pinholes come from corrosion inside the pipe, and where there is one there are usually more developing along the same run. One pinhole is worth a repair; a second in the same area is the pipe telling you the run needs replacing, and we will show you the removed section so you can see why.
Yes. We locate the leak as precisely as possible first, open the smallest workable access, and make the repair. We do not do drywall finishing, but we cut access neatly so the patch afterward is straightforward for you or your drywaller.